Dear All,
We are safely back in the cool arms of the United States of America. I can't believe it-that I'm back, that vacation is over, that I have to work tomorrow, that I have so much laundry to do but I won't be able to wear any of it for 6 months. It is all unbelievable. Especially because last night a very sweet Brasilero at the American Airlines ticket counter offered me a week in Salvador if I gave up my seat. I must have been ill because I said no. What is the matter with me? Was I craving kale that much? Surely maqueca do peixe would have cured that craving. I must be getting old. Or responsible. Gasp.
I will say that I am very excited to sleep in my own bed tonight. I love my bed. I wish I could pack it with me. But then again sleeping in foreign beds is half the fun, right?
I only cried once since I've returned. When I landed in Dallas. I can't say for sure why but my guess is that a lot of people cry when they arrive in Dallas. For many reasons.
I don't know if anyone is still reading this but I do plan on writing a few more entries of things that I wanted to post but didn't have the time or energy or Internet connection to do so. Plus my best observations were in the Paraguayan campo with no electricity! Henry Miller described this situation in Tropic of Cancer when he wrote: "I ought to be rich enough to have a secretary to whom I could dictate as I walk, because my best thoughts always come when I am away from the machine." I believe I would be rich enough to hire a secretary in Paraguay if I hadn't spent so much money there. Or rather, in transit there.
I can feel the pressure of these United States already squeezing. Being plugged in is a beautiful thing. That is when you are taking a break in the air conditioning to communicate with the rest of those plugged in and not when you are the one plugged in. The phone has been ringing. Texts start arriving. I am already pounding out series of letters on my laptop. And I've not been home for an entire day.
Noticeable differences though. Bathrooms with t.p. that doesn't crumble and actually looks clean coming off the roll. And you can miraculously throw it in the toilet! Muscle memory is amazing-I wasn't gone that long and yet I am "potty trained" and have been trying to throw my t.p. in the trash since my return. Traffic lights that are actually obeyed. Red lights are more than mere suggestions. When I took a walk in my neighborhood I didn't hear whispers of "There goes the North American."
A sad, defeated pile of bikinis sits on the floor surrounded by bits and pieces of the trip. Right next to the scarf I wore home from the airport. Things to reorganize, things to think about, things to look at, things to gift. Memories and sand and smells. All of it crashing with the "To Do" lists I left behind. Right next to the phone, computer and camera full of pictures waiting to be uploaded and shared.
Wednesday, January 7, 2009
Saturday, January 3, 2009
Silverware and Waiters
Would it be a vacation with Bell girls if we didn´t at least mention food?
We´ve eaten a lot of meals out. Sister isn´t that much into street food so we´ve had a lot of sit down meals. And each and every time silverware has been the star. Apparently it´s a really big deal here. I don´t know if this is a new development or if it has always been like this (the last time I was here I only ate food on sticks) but place settings are very important. Plus, waiters hover but they don´t really do anything and just when you need them for something* they avoid eye contact. It´s lovely.
This morning at breakfast our waiter took Sisters sugar away. She has finally embraced the 1 part warm milk-1 part Nescafe-1 part sugar Brasiliero way of taking coffee. And then he took her sugar away. He also took my water away. I said quietly to Kristie, ´´I wasn´t finished with that´´ and a hand with my glass of water appeared in front of me!
During lunch the other day we shared a salad. I used the correct salad fork (because I´m wicked proper) but Sister didn´t. So when they took away the salad plate with her lunch fork she moved her salad fork to the side of her new plate. Instantly the waiter appeared, took her salad fork and replaced it with real fork, placed a new salad fork in the correct position and disappeared, just after placing the salad fork he took from the table back in the drawer of silverware.
Last night the waiters dried silverware as they watched a soap opera. They couldn´t be bothered to get our check.
They do have a special way of using silverware to serve things. We´ve been served using two spoons to dish something to our plates. Two knives as well. But the waiter feat of the week was just yesterday at La Felice (which when I first saw the sign I thought it said LICE and told Sister I didn´t want to eat there) when the waiter gracefully used two spoons to pick up napkins which he then placed on the table.
We also ate real salad at La Felice. It was delicious. I am craving kale. It might be the only thing that will get me to return. Kale. What´s wrong with me?
*There was one exception. We were faced with a big decision: To eat at the Restaurant Yellow or the Restaurant Green (very creative names here-the Restaurant Yellow was all yellow and Restaurant Green was, you guessed it, all green). We went with green, mostly because Kristie didn´t want to upset our waiters from the previous night who worked right next to the Restaurant Yellow. So we decided on Green, which was wonderfully entertaining to me because Sister was wearing a green shirt and matched everything-tablecloths, building, etc. We ate a most delicious Brasilian feijado and drank some ´chopp´ (beer). We had one, then two, then three and while we contemplated leaving, our sweet waiter arrived with a smile and two mais chopp. It was like he knew us and our one more beer tendencies! Needless to say we tipped generously.
We´ve eaten a lot of meals out. Sister isn´t that much into street food so we´ve had a lot of sit down meals. And each and every time silverware has been the star. Apparently it´s a really big deal here. I don´t know if this is a new development or if it has always been like this (the last time I was here I only ate food on sticks) but place settings are very important. Plus, waiters hover but they don´t really do anything and just when you need them for something* they avoid eye contact. It´s lovely.
This morning at breakfast our waiter took Sisters sugar away. She has finally embraced the 1 part warm milk-1 part Nescafe-1 part sugar Brasiliero way of taking coffee. And then he took her sugar away. He also took my water away. I said quietly to Kristie, ´´I wasn´t finished with that´´ and a hand with my glass of water appeared in front of me!
During lunch the other day we shared a salad. I used the correct salad fork (because I´m wicked proper) but Sister didn´t. So when they took away the salad plate with her lunch fork she moved her salad fork to the side of her new plate. Instantly the waiter appeared, took her salad fork and replaced it with real fork, placed a new salad fork in the correct position and disappeared, just after placing the salad fork he took from the table back in the drawer of silverware.
Last night the waiters dried silverware as they watched a soap opera. They couldn´t be bothered to get our check.
They do have a special way of using silverware to serve things. We´ve been served using two spoons to dish something to our plates. Two knives as well. But the waiter feat of the week was just yesterday at La Felice (which when I first saw the sign I thought it said LICE and told Sister I didn´t want to eat there) when the waiter gracefully used two spoons to pick up napkins which he then placed on the table.
We also ate real salad at La Felice. It was delicious. I am craving kale. It might be the only thing that will get me to return. Kale. What´s wrong with me?
*There was one exception. We were faced with a big decision: To eat at the Restaurant Yellow or the Restaurant Green (very creative names here-the Restaurant Yellow was all yellow and Restaurant Green was, you guessed it, all green). We went with green, mostly because Kristie didn´t want to upset our waiters from the previous night who worked right next to the Restaurant Yellow. So we decided on Green, which was wonderfully entertaining to me because Sister was wearing a green shirt and matched everything-tablecloths, building, etc. We ate a most delicious Brasilian feijado and drank some ´chopp´ (beer). We had one, then two, then three and while we contemplated leaving, our sweet waiter arrived with a smile and two mais chopp. It was like he knew us and our one more beer tendencies! Needless to say we tipped generously.
From Sister
For those of you who followed my India blog, you're maybe wondering why you haven't heard from me on this blog. If you asked G it would be that I am completely and totally voiceless without her in this country or any other that doesn't speak English. And I suppose it is true that I am no good at learning even the few basic phrases beyond obrigada... and somehow I am even worse at acting out what I want or need. But really it is just nice to have someone else take care of you all the time, even they start to resent it after two weeks! Ahem ... What we have found funny though is that a lot of folks we encountered in transit and here in Brasil assume that I am the Brasilian girl of the two of us (no one believes we are sisters). But because I never speak, we also assume they think I am a Brasilian mute. Which is fine by me. This has been a great trip - I needed the warmth of the sun and the ability to walk outside in just one layer (sometimes even less than a layer) but I am ready to come home, though, because I miss my dog something fierce and I also miss the quiet solitude of my tiny little house. I also miss nice glasses of wine served at room temperature, and coffee that doesn't need to be diluted with milk and sugar to make it somewhat palatable. And, though I hate to admit it, I do miss communicating with other folks just a wee bit. Over and out. Kristie
Friday, January 2, 2009
Catch Up!
The subway station near our hotel was closed yesterday. So we couldn´t use the Internet since the ´cyber´ is located in the station. But here I am, back to update you on all our New Years Eve happenings. According to all Brasilians we experienced the biggest New Years Eve party in the world. I will admit that it felt big. There were people everywhere. All dressed in white. A celebration of peace. And drunkeness.
Sister was a cheap date. Two caipirinhas and she was set! I will admit the woman pouring the drinks was a stellar drink maker and drinks whose only ingredients include lime, sugar and booze tend to be stronger than most. It was a fun night though. Partying with 3 million other happy folks with wishes for peace in the new year.
Because I have a reputation to uphold I cannot/will not reveal all of the evening´s antics but we had a wonderful time despite the fact that I was toasted a lovely reddish purple by the sun that day.
I used old sunscreen and much to my discomfort sunscreen really doesn´t work when it is old. So places that haven´t seen the sun since the last time I was in Brasil are now quite sore. But a day at Copacabana Beach was worth it. I think I could people watch for an eternity and not grow tired.
The sweet vendors who rented us beach chairs, an umbrella and brought us beers as needed were just one source of entertainment. They love their jobs. They dance to the music in the background, take dips in the ocean, defend their turf and smile. The kids, covered in sand, running back and forth, begging their parents to buy them one of each of everything being sold on the beach. Darting from ocean to parents to vendor to the makeshift shower. Never tiring in the midday sun. Watching the different interactions and different body shapes and varying degrees of `coverage´kept my mind off the sun searing my pale norte skin.
The food vendors gave us no reason to leave our chairs. Who doesn´t want to feast on grilled cheese (only cheese, no bread) served on a stick all day long? I love days where all my food is served on sticks. Just think of the water I saved the world by not having any dirty dishes. Serving food on sticks is something we might want to consider in the US as a way to save the planet. Sticks and siestas. Yes. I will write my senador as soon as I return.
There is much to write but really how exciting is it to hear about our trips to the beach, all day, everyday while most of you are sitting in the cold, snow-covered Norte? I will spare you.
One thing I forgot to write earlier: In Puerto Iguazu, Argentina we got into a taxi that was brand new. I glanced around and noticed that all the taxis in that town were shiny. I asked the driver if everyone drives new cars in that town and he said, ´Well some are, I suppose.´ I explained, Well, we´ve just come from Paraguay and his response-a hearty laugh! Which so much sums up how everyone outside of Paraguay feels towards Paraguay. Pobre anga che Paraguay.
Sister was a cheap date. Two caipirinhas and she was set! I will admit the woman pouring the drinks was a stellar drink maker and drinks whose only ingredients include lime, sugar and booze tend to be stronger than most. It was a fun night though. Partying with 3 million other happy folks with wishes for peace in the new year.
Because I have a reputation to uphold I cannot/will not reveal all of the evening´s antics but we had a wonderful time despite the fact that I was toasted a lovely reddish purple by the sun that day.
I used old sunscreen and much to my discomfort sunscreen really doesn´t work when it is old. So places that haven´t seen the sun since the last time I was in Brasil are now quite sore. But a day at Copacabana Beach was worth it. I think I could people watch for an eternity and not grow tired.
The sweet vendors who rented us beach chairs, an umbrella and brought us beers as needed were just one source of entertainment. They love their jobs. They dance to the music in the background, take dips in the ocean, defend their turf and smile. The kids, covered in sand, running back and forth, begging their parents to buy them one of each of everything being sold on the beach. Darting from ocean to parents to vendor to the makeshift shower. Never tiring in the midday sun. Watching the different interactions and different body shapes and varying degrees of `coverage´kept my mind off the sun searing my pale norte skin.
The food vendors gave us no reason to leave our chairs. Who doesn´t want to feast on grilled cheese (only cheese, no bread) served on a stick all day long? I love days where all my food is served on sticks. Just think of the water I saved the world by not having any dirty dishes. Serving food on sticks is something we might want to consider in the US as a way to save the planet. Sticks and siestas. Yes. I will write my senador as soon as I return.
There is much to write but really how exciting is it to hear about our trips to the beach, all day, everyday while most of you are sitting in the cold, snow-covered Norte? I will spare you.
One thing I forgot to write earlier: In Puerto Iguazu, Argentina we got into a taxi that was brand new. I glanced around and noticed that all the taxis in that town were shiny. I asked the driver if everyone drives new cars in that town and he said, ´Well some are, I suppose.´ I explained, Well, we´ve just come from Paraguay and his response-a hearty laugh! Which so much sums up how everyone outside of Paraguay feels towards Paraguay. Pobre anga che Paraguay.
Thursday, January 1, 2009
T Shirts Part II
A few more...
-Sexy Rose
-Red Nose Shoe
-It`s Fashion At Motion
-Everyone is Gay
-Fashion Stress Girl
-Breaking Limits Tripping
The last one could possibly be enjoyable but I don´t know if I would advertise it on a shirt.
The best thing Sister said yesterday: I sweat when I stink.
Happy New Year! Feliz Ano Novo! Feliz Año Nuevo!
-Sexy Rose
-Red Nose Shoe
-It`s Fashion At Motion
-Everyone is Gay
-Fashion Stress Girl
-Breaking Limits Tripping
The last one could possibly be enjoyable but I don´t know if I would advertise it on a shirt.
The best thing Sister said yesterday: I sweat when I stink.
Happy New Year! Feliz Ano Novo! Feliz Año Nuevo!
Tuesday, December 30, 2008
La Farra en Omnibus
Blogging in the developing world sucks! (I´m not sure Rio is considered developing but...) I somehow erased the entire blog I wrote about our trip to Rio. But I will start again. Today is a new day. MF. I guess it was good that I was just practising my swearing in several languages to prepare me for the moment my thoughts disappeared to cyber-world. BLEEP!
Fortunately, we are in Rio de Janeiro and life is good. Yesterday we got off a 24 hour bus ride delight, showered and headed to Copa, Copacabana...It may be touristy but there is a reason for that. It is freaking beautiful. And a short walk from our $250 a night 2 star hotel! Hooray! I plan to spend all of my time on the beach. Drinking. Sister can go to Christ the Redeemer to give Jesus a high five or float up Sugar Loaf Mountain but I will be drinking on the beach.
We are getting our Internet fix in the subway station in downtown Rio. Then we will decide between the rooftop pool or going to a beach. It doesn´t feel like New Years Eve eve and it beats the hell out of malls in Asuncion.
The bus ride was a long one but deliciously fun. We got on the bus in Puerto Iguazu, Argentina. It was a double-decker with lots of space. Sister and I couldn´t sit together at first but she sat next to a nice, young German named Lily. I sat next to several young Argentine men who I knew were trouble. But the fun kind of trouble. The border portion of the trip took almost an hour-exiting one country and entering another with a bus full of folks from many different countries takes a long time. As we left the Brazilian checkpoint the Argentinos broke out their guitarra and didgeridoo and starting singing. They knew a wide range of songs, including some in Spanish, English (I Want to Break Free) and lots of Tribalistas and Manu Chao. Fortunately they were good.
Lily agreed to switch seats with me and soon I was teaching Kristie how to play Truco (card game) as 4 Argentines played Truco in front of us with a concert happening behind us. Several passengers (most traveling from Asuncion) got off at Iguazu Falls on the Brasil side. The bus never filled up again.
We chatted with the folks around us and when we stopped for dinner we had several new friends. We had some beer with dinner (at a truck stop with a buffet that you pay by the weight of your plate) and we decided to buy a few beers for the road. But we were under prepared as the Argentinian trouble makers brought two cases for a full on Farra! Kids from `downstairs´ came to the party and the beers were gulped and the music played.
Sister sat in disbelief. She assumed everyone must have known each other before. I explained that this is how it goes and why it is so fun to travel. Especially when you´re young-you make new friends from all over the world. We were, by far, the old ones. At least the old ones at the bus party!
As beers were emptied a showdown between Brasilian bravado and Argentine machismo erupted. Are Brasilians or Argentinos better kissers? They asked Kristie. She shrugged: I don´t understand. A cute little Brasilian explained. She nodded-I understand what you are asking. He understood that he had permission. He dove in for a kiss. The chanting began. Brasil! Brasil! Now an Argentine. And before Kristie could react she got a kiss from an Argentine. Then another Brasilian. Then another Argentine. Well, which is it? Brasil or Argentina? Only she can tell. But will she?
Eventually the farra slowed down and we fell asleep one by one. We arrived at the Rio terminal just before noon and said goodbye to our new friends. It was amazing to get on a bus and not know anyone and get off with new friends. We kissed goodbye (cheeks only this time) and headed to our hotel.
Now we are in Rio. Settled and ready to party. Yesterday we sat on the beach and drank beers and got a sweet little perfect afternoon buzz. Today we got up early and walked most of Copacabana. Now we are headed to a new beach after we get some food at McDonalds. Yeah right, yeah right. Not now, not never. No way. (I haven´t been able to quote the lizard since I left Timo in Asuncion so I had to here...)
Hope all is well wherever this finds you!
Fortunately, we are in Rio de Janeiro and life is good. Yesterday we got off a 24 hour bus ride delight, showered and headed to Copa, Copacabana...It may be touristy but there is a reason for that. It is freaking beautiful. And a short walk from our $250 a night 2 star hotel! Hooray! I plan to spend all of my time on the beach. Drinking. Sister can go to Christ the Redeemer to give Jesus a high five or float up Sugar Loaf Mountain but I will be drinking on the beach.
We are getting our Internet fix in the subway station in downtown Rio. Then we will decide between the rooftop pool or going to a beach. It doesn´t feel like New Years Eve eve and it beats the hell out of malls in Asuncion.
The bus ride was a long one but deliciously fun. We got on the bus in Puerto Iguazu, Argentina. It was a double-decker with lots of space. Sister and I couldn´t sit together at first but she sat next to a nice, young German named Lily. I sat next to several young Argentine men who I knew were trouble. But the fun kind of trouble. The border portion of the trip took almost an hour-exiting one country and entering another with a bus full of folks from many different countries takes a long time. As we left the Brazilian checkpoint the Argentinos broke out their guitarra and didgeridoo and starting singing. They knew a wide range of songs, including some in Spanish, English (I Want to Break Free) and lots of Tribalistas and Manu Chao. Fortunately they were good.
Lily agreed to switch seats with me and soon I was teaching Kristie how to play Truco (card game) as 4 Argentines played Truco in front of us with a concert happening behind us. Several passengers (most traveling from Asuncion) got off at Iguazu Falls on the Brasil side. The bus never filled up again.
We chatted with the folks around us and when we stopped for dinner we had several new friends. We had some beer with dinner (at a truck stop with a buffet that you pay by the weight of your plate) and we decided to buy a few beers for the road. But we were under prepared as the Argentinian trouble makers brought two cases for a full on Farra! Kids from `downstairs´ came to the party and the beers were gulped and the music played.
Sister sat in disbelief. She assumed everyone must have known each other before. I explained that this is how it goes and why it is so fun to travel. Especially when you´re young-you make new friends from all over the world. We were, by far, the old ones. At least the old ones at the bus party!
As beers were emptied a showdown between Brasilian bravado and Argentine machismo erupted. Are Brasilians or Argentinos better kissers? They asked Kristie. She shrugged: I don´t understand. A cute little Brasilian explained. She nodded-I understand what you are asking. He understood that he had permission. He dove in for a kiss. The chanting began. Brasil! Brasil! Now an Argentine. And before Kristie could react she got a kiss from an Argentine. Then another Brasilian. Then another Argentine. Well, which is it? Brasil or Argentina? Only she can tell. But will she?
Eventually the farra slowed down and we fell asleep one by one. We arrived at the Rio terminal just before noon and said goodbye to our new friends. It was amazing to get on a bus and not know anyone and get off with new friends. We kissed goodbye (cheeks only this time) and headed to our hotel.
Now we are in Rio. Settled and ready to party. Yesterday we sat on the beach and drank beers and got a sweet little perfect afternoon buzz. Today we got up early and walked most of Copacabana. Now we are headed to a new beach after we get some food at McDonalds. Yeah right, yeah right. Not now, not never. No way. (I haven´t been able to quote the lizard since I left Timo in Asuncion so I had to here...)
Hope all is well wherever this finds you!
Saturday, December 27, 2008
The Three T´s
I love the Terminal. Bus terminal. Sticky hot. I love that you can buy terere to be consumed while waiting. I love that you can buy anything you might need and a whole lot of stuff you don´t. I love the travelers and what they bring. I love the "rica chipa-chipa caliente-chipa-chipa-mil-a-mil" calls. I love the wheeling and dealing newspaper vendors and the false sense of security officers that patrol the terminal. I love the reunions and the goodbyes. I do not love the smell or the dust or the heat. I do not love paying to use gross baños. But the loves far outweigh the not loves though.
The Terminal can be boring but we kept entertained because the non-stop parade of hilarious messages on T-shirts. A small sampling:
-Get It Up Baby
-More of your Customers Than Ever! Buying from the NEW DENIM JEANS!
-SEXY Sweet and Sour Girl
-Kiss Me or Kick Me
-Bring the Essential
-PUNA (with a Puma logo)
-FBI (firm believer in) JESUS (my fav!)
Traveled all night to wake up on a bus to the most amazing sky. The sun coming up in a splash of bright yellow and orange while lilac and deep blue curtained the west. I slept so deeply on the bus that I had dreams. Vivid ones. We checked into a hotel in Puerto Iguazu, Argentina and we are heading to the Falls en seguida.
It feels good to be out of Paraguay as much as I love it. I have had enough Paraguay for this trip and I am looking forward to the cool mist of the roaring "throat of the devil" and a sweet baptism under the San Martin Falls.
Pictures soon. I hope. Saludos to all!
The Terminal can be boring but we kept entertained because the non-stop parade of hilarious messages on T-shirts. A small sampling:
-Get It Up Baby
-More of your Customers Than Ever! Buying from the NEW DENIM JEANS!
-SEXY Sweet and Sour Girl
-Kiss Me or Kick Me
-Bring the Essential
-PUNA (with a Puma logo)
-FBI (firm believer in) JESUS (my fav!)
Traveled all night to wake up on a bus to the most amazing sky. The sun coming up in a splash of bright yellow and orange while lilac and deep blue curtained the west. I slept so deeply on the bus that I had dreams. Vivid ones. We checked into a hotel in Puerto Iguazu, Argentina and we are heading to the Falls en seguida.
It feels good to be out of Paraguay as much as I love it. I have had enough Paraguay for this trip and I am looking forward to the cool mist of the roaring "throat of the devil" and a sweet baptism under the San Martin Falls.
Pictures soon. I hope. Saludos to all!
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